Pella Doors & Windows Professional Installation Services.

If your home located in Dallas, Plano, Frisco, McKinney, Allen area, we will help you to find you exactly exterior/patio Pella door(s) you desire and we will install it for you at affordable price.

We will find your desired style, we will measure your opening we will order your Pella door, install it, warranty and service it if needed. All our installers are factory trained and certified, background checked and insured.

Below methods we use for Pella hinged door installation:



This method of Full Frame Removal involves removing the sash and entire frame of the existing door from the wall. The resulting opening is the original rough opening. The existing door nailing fins are usually nailed to the studs in frame construction with siding, brick veneer or other exterior material applied over the fin on the outside. The interior may have a drywall return from the wall to the door frame.


A. We will score paint or varnish between the interior trim and the wall with a sharp utility knife. Note: This will minimize the damage to the interior wall and trim.

B. Remove the interior trim. Using a pry bar and block of wood, remove the interior trim from all four sides of the door including the stool at the bottom of the door. If the interior trim is being reused, pull the nails out through the back side of the board with nipper pliers.

C. Cut the exterior sealant line between the exterior brickmould or trim and the exterior siding or wall cladding.

D. We will remove the panels (if necessary) to make the door lighter.

E. Remove the exterior brickmould or flat trim using a pry bar and block of wood. Caution: Some doors may come out of the opening as the exterior trim is removed.

F. Remove the door frame using a pry bar if necessary.


A. We’ll remove the panels (if necessary) to make the door lighter.

B. Remove the existing exterior trim (if applicable). We’ll use a block of wood to protect the exterior wall material. Use a pry bar to remove the existing exterior trim.

C. Remove the nails or screws attaching the door nailing fin to the wall.


E. Use a reciprocating saw to cut through sealant line and the nailing fin. OR

F. Remove siding or cut back the siding a minimum of 3″ or far enough to expose the nailing fin. Remove the fasteners attaching the door to the wall.

Opening Verification:

A. We’ll confirm the opening is plumb and level. Note: It is critical the bottom is level and it does not slope to the interior or exterior. B. Remove dirt, oil or debris from the opening and surrounding wall surfaces.

C. Confirm the door will fit the opening. Measure all four sides of the opening to make sure it is 1/2″ to 3/4″ larger than the door in both width and 1/2″ larger in height. Measure the width and height in several places to ensure the header or studs are not bowed. Note: 1-1/2″ or more of solid wood blocking is required around the perimeter of the opening. We’ll fix any problems with the rough opening before proceeding.


A. We’ll remove plastic wrap and cardboard packaging from the door. DO NOT open the door until it is securely fastened. DO NOT cut the strap that goes from the lock holes to the sill of the door (if applicable).

B. Inspect the product for any damage such as cracks, dents or scratches. DO NOT install damaged products.

C. Fold out installation fin to 90° (units with fold up fin only).

Additional preparation may be required for performance upgrade, impact resistant products or to comply with local building code requirements.

Prepare Opening:

A. We’ll repair the wall surface around the opening (if necessary) by installing new blocking flush with the surface of the existing sheathing and/ or repairing the existing building wrap with flashing tape.

B. Cut 2 pieces of flashing tape 12″ longer than opening width.

C. Apply sill flashing tape #1 extending far enough onto the wall surface to overlap the building wrap 1″ or onto the top edge of the siding and 6″ up each jamb.

D. Cut 1″ wide tabs at each corner by tearing the foil 1/2″ each way from corner.

E. Apply sill flashing tape #2 overlapping tape #1 by 1″ minimum. If existing building wrap is folded into the opening at the jambs, skip to step 1H.

F. Cut 2 pieces of flashing tape. Make one equal to the height of each side of the opening.

G. Apply one piece on each jamb starting 1″ from the exterior of the framing, over the edge of the sheathing and onto the surface of the sheathing.

H. Attach a Pella aluminum sill support or wood blocking flush with the opening sill.

I. We will apply a continuous, 3/8″ tall bead of sealant 1/2″ from the edge of the opening at the sides and top only. Do NOT apply sealant at the sill. This step may be omitted if there will be at least 3″ of wall surface between the edge of the door frame and the siding after installation.


A. We will place three 3/8″ beads of sealant across the opening sill. Place the interior-most bead 1/2″ from where the interior of the door sill will remain after installation. Continue this bead 6″ up each jamb. Place a second bead 1/2″ from the exterior of the framing. Place a 3rd bead in the groove of the sill support or 1/4″ from the exterior edge of the wood blocking.

B. Center the bottom of the door in the opening and tilt the door into position. We’ll check the hinge jambs for plumb and confirm there is room for shimming between the jambs and opening on each side.

C. Drive two fasteners, one near each end of the top nailing fin. (See nail fin anchor instructions at the end of this booklet)

D. Plumb and square the door. Place shims at each hinge and lock strike. Keep shims 1/2″ short of door frame depth. Insert additional shims starting 6″ from the bottom as needed to keep jambs straight and panel reveals even on all four sides.

E. Check the door placement by measuring from the interior surface of the door frame or jamb extension to the interior surface of the wall for consistency. If the dimensions are not equal, confirm the fins are folded fully to 90º (if applicable).

F. We’ll finish driving fasteners into the nailing fin.

G. Check door operation.


Interior Sealant:

We will use low pressure polyurethane door insulating foams.

A. We’ll insert the nozzle or straw between the rough opening and door frame from the interior. Use a pliers (if necessary) to compress the end of a straw tube to allow it to fit in tight openings.

B. Place a 1″ deep bead of foam approximately 1″ from the interior of the frame to allow for expansion. Apply foam between the frame and rough opening, NOT between jamb extensions and the rough opening.

C. To ensure a continuous interior seal, we will apply sealant over the interior surface of any shims or clips interrupting the foam seal. Backer rod (as necessary) and sealant can be used in place of the low expansion foam to create the interior seal. However, foam has greater insulating properties.

Fiberglass batt or similar insulation is not recommended as it can absorb water and does not act as an air seal. D. Place a continuous bead of sealant across the inner sill at the intersection of the door sill and subfloor. Continue the sealant 6″ up each jamb. W’ll use a low odor, paintable sealant such as Pella Window and Door Installation Sealant. Re-check door operation after foam installation. Excess foam may be removed with a serrated knife after it cures.

Exterior Sealant:

We’ll use a high quality, multi-purpose exterior sealant such as Pella Window and Door Installation Sealant.

A. Insert backer rod 3/8″ deep in the space around the door. Backer rod adds shape and controls the depth of the sealant line.

B. Apply a continuous bead of sealant to the entire perimeter of the door.

C. Shape, tool and clean excess sealant. When finished, the sealant should be the shape of an hourglass.


100% Satisfaction guarantee by professional factory trained and certified Pella installers.